Sunday, April 23, 2006

Luang Prabang

Patrick and I spent a second day in Vientiane wandering around town and exploring various markets and temples.


On our third day in Laos, we took a bus to Luang Prabang in the north. The bus ride took the better part of the day, leaving at 7am and arriving about 3pm in the afternoon. The road north is incredibly picturesque. About four hours into the journey, the bus entered the mountains of northern Laos, offering spectacular views into the valleys below and lush green peaks above.

Stopping for lunch, I noticed that one of our fellow passengers had an AK-47 assault rifle hanging over one shoulder. I was reminded of the various armed attacks on buses and other vehicles in northern Laos in 2003 and 2004 (as well as several bombings in Vientiane). Indeed, the most recent road attack occured in January 2005. Here, I realised, was our armed escort.


A couple hours later, coming around a sharp corner on the side of a mountain, the bus came to a sudden stop. In front of us, a sedan was parked, blocking our path. The driver looked around nervously. After several minutes he finally got down from the bus and went to talk to the small crowd of people by the sedan. They talked for several more minutes. The sedan didn't move. At this point, our AK-47 wiedling escort walked down the aisle of the bus to see what was going on. Holding the rifle at the ready, he joined the driver in conversation. After several more minutes, the small group appeared to reach some resolution. One man, apparently the sedan owner, produced some chalk and outlined the tires of the sedan. At this point I noticed the sedan had left long skid marks on the pavement. Having chalked the sedan's position, the owner finally drove forward, making room for the bus to pass. Underneath where the car had previously stood, lay a single sandal. Evidently, there had been some sort of accident, although the victim had been obviously already moved.

Arriving in Luang Prabang, we checked into the Sayo Guesthouse, a beautifully restored French building, which had been recommended to me by a colleague. The town sits on the southern bank of the Mekong and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a very quiet town, filled with beautiful old buildings and magnificent temples.






We spent what was left of yesterday and today exploring the town and eating several extravagent meals. Patrick flew back to Beijing via Bangkok this afternoon. I'm taking a bus back to Vientiane tomorrow and from there I'll make my way to Bangkok.

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