Big Dam

Checked out the Three Gorges Dam yesterday--one huge project. Returning to the bus station in the evening, hoping to catch a bus back to Yichang, we found the station closed. For a moment it looked like we might be spending the night in the small town by the dam until suddenly our driver reappeared and took us to an apparently alternate bus station. At an additional cost, of course. Today we board a boat which will take us upstream for a few days to Chongqing.

Wuhan on the Yangtze

After leaving Seoul just over a week ago, we're now in Wuhan on the
Yangtze in Hubei Province in the PRC.

On our second last day in Seoul, we ate dinner in a Chinese restaurant
near the apartment where we were staying. Shortly after sitting down
and ordering, two policemen walked in and sat at a nearby table near
ours. Soon, I saw Chris's eyes widen and turning around, observed
that one of the policemen had removed his pistol from its holster and
appeared to be attempting to reattach the trigger guard. The gun lay
flat on the table and he apparently found it necessary to apply
significant force. He was not successful, as he soon picked up a
chopstick and attempted to use this to pry the guard into place. The
pistol was now pointing at the table next to ours. He finally managed
to fix his gun, but not before a crowd of restaurant employees had
surrounded the table offering various advice and seemingly entirely
unconcerned that the policeman was trying to jimmy his loaded weapon
with a chopstick.

From Seoul, we flew to Shanghai, taking the new MagLev train (reaching
a maximum speed of 431 km/hr) from the airport. We spent 6 nights in
Shanghai near the Bund and the lively Nanjing Road. We were able to
catch up with Chengcheng, my former English student, visiting her at
the Shanghai University of Finance and Economics, where she studies.

An overnight train took us from Shanghai to Wuhan. The ride in our
"hard sleeper" carriage was remarkably comfortable, although
incredibly loud Chinese music blared through hallway speakers until
10pm; come 7am it was straight back on. Many of our Chinese
companions on the train seemed to know the words to most songs.

We're now in Wuhan, staying with some English teachers who we met in
Shanghai. On Thursday we take a bus to Yichan, where we board a boat
which will take us on a several day journey upstream on the Yangtze as
far as Chongqin.

It seems that, while we are able to update this blog, we cannot
actually view it ourselves as the host site, blogspot.com, appears to
be blocked by a Chinese firewall.

Football and Buddhism

Last Wednesday, Chris and I attended FC Seoul's last game of the current season. It was played at the World Cup Stadium in Seoul, built for the 2002 World Cup. The stadium was impressive, but, owing, no doubt, to FC Seoul's poor performance this season, the crowd was not. FC Seoul lost 3-2, the deciding goal coming in the last minute. Several days later, on Saturday, I returned to the World Cup Stadium alone for the Korean national team's friendly game against Sweden. The atmosphere couldn't have been more different. There was little chance of a ticket to this game; it must have been sold out as soon as the game was announced. Judging from the crowd and its enthusiasm, one might have thought it was the World Cup itself and not a preperatory friendly game. My failure to procure a ticket was no big disappointment; a large screen had been set up outside the stadium. I joined a large crowd of South Koreans watching the game on this screen with free hot drinks provided by one of the many sponsors' stands set up outside and accompanied by the roar of the capacity crowd in the stadium behind us. The game ended 2-2.

In the time between these two football games, Chris and I visited a Buddhist Temple in the mountains about 3 hours drive southwest of Seoul. It was an incredibly serene and peaceful place with beautiful views into the valley below.

We fly to Shanghai on Monday.


View from the temple into the mist filled valley below.









Walking through terraced fields near the temple.

Train to Pyeongyang

The DMZ runs the width of the Korean Peninsula; it's 248 km long and 4km wide. Only 48 kilometres northwest of Seoul, in the middle of the DMZ, is Panmunjeom, where the 1953 armistice was signed. One kilometre east of the village is the Joint Security Area (JSA) through which the Military Demarcation Line (MDL; the half-way line down the centre of the DMZ) runs. Negotiations continue to take place in the JSA between the UN and the North Koreans in the blue Armistice Commission building, which spans the MDL. The soldiers standing on guard are UN troops (these are mostly Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers and about 30 American soldiers); a North Korean soldier can be made out on the top of the steps of the building in the background.

Until 1976, North Korean and UN soldiers moved around all parts of the JSA. On 18 August, 1976, however, this changed. A poplar tree was blocking the view from UN guardpost #5 to guardpost #3. A South Korean workforce was sent to trim the tree but was threatened by North Korean soldiers. They returned, escorted, but were met by 30 North Korean soldiers. When the commanding escorting officer, US Captain Bonifas, ordered the work detail to trim the tree despite the North Korean threats, the North Korean soldiers attacked and killed, using the axes brought by the work detail, Captain Bonifas and another US soldier, Lieutenant Barrett. On the morning of 21 August, a massive tree trimming operation, Operation Paul Bunyan, was launched by ROK and US troops. The poplar tree at the centre of the conflict was removed; the work detail was this time supported by an armed platoon, 27 helicopters, and several B-52 bombers flying along the DMZ. Several days later, both sides agreed to partition the JSA along the MDL.

Our guide in the JSA, a US Specialist, told the story of the Axe Murder Incident and Operation Paul Bunyan in a lighthearted manner. Yet, the continuing tension in the JSA was nonetheless evident during our visit. We were led into the Armistice Commission Building, free to walk across the MDL into the North. Two ROK soldiers, however, stood at attention, with more soldiers outside at the ready. These soldiers, outside, as can be seen in the photograph above, stand partly behind the building, with only half their body exposed to the North, in case an opposing soldier should fire at them.


















Inside the building, further evidence of the ensuing tension exists. In one of the photographs above, two ROK soldiers can be seen standing in the background. They are standing in front of the door leading from the Armistice Commission Building to the North. To the left of the soldiers, there is a small white patch on the blue wall where the paint has faded. The building is for the use of both the UN and the North Koreans. Whenever either side uses the building, they enter it and lock the opposing door. When we were inside the building, for example, the North door remained locked, with the ROK soldiers posted at the door. After we left the JSA, however, the door is unlocked (except currently as discussed below). The unlocking of the door to the North, however, is no simple task. One ROK soldier unlocks the door. A second soldier stands around the corner, leans against the wall (causing the fading of the paint), and reaches forward to grip the first soldier's belt. This is to prevent the first soldier being pulled out of the building into the North by North Korean soldiers when he unlocks the door, something which has apparently been attempted before.

While the situation remains tense, the conflict seems to be limited largely to posturing. The North door of the Armistice Commission Building, our US guide informed us, was currently locked, had been so for the last week, and would remain so until the North Koreans agreed to sit down and discuss the use of the building. This was in retaliation for a North Korean action the previous week. The UN commanding officer had been leading a tour of the UN side of the JSA, but when he reached the Armistice Commission Building, he found the door locked and the building occupied by North Korean soldiers. While the North Koreans were allowed to use the building for their own tours, it was not being used at this time for such a purpose. Rather, the North Koreans had simply decided to lock the door and post several soldiers in the building for no other reason than to annoy their counterparts across the MDL. The UN commanding officer, in a rage, ordered that the door to the North be locked and remain so as soon as the North Koreans finally vacated the building (not until several days later).

Some in South Korea seem to be nonetheless optimistic about future relations with the North. Not too far from the JSA, construction is going on just south of the DMZ at the site of the main highway and railway line which formerly connected the country's two halves. A large immigration and customs facility is being built on the highway and the Dorasan Railway Station was recently completed. A sign already leads to tracks for the train to Pyeongyang, although the tracks themselves remain unused.

A view of North Korea across the DMZ

Dorasan Railway Station: Tracks to Pyeongyang

Temple

Tor and I stayed two days this last week at a Buddhist temple about 4 hours from the center of Seoul. It was in the mountains of rural Korea, beautiful, and relatively isolated. Most of my thoughts and impressions are too personal to post here, but I thought I'd post the schedule of our activities. I would also like to note that without the help of Byung-Joon the trip would not have been possible or nearly as enjoyable as it was.

The monk, a friend of Song Jaeyoon (a former TF) and his family, is named Hwalsung Su-nim, (Su means monk (et. Skt. Sanga to Sung, Chinese), and nim is the general Korean honorific). It was a privilege to spend time with him. (He is abbreviated as HS below).

11/10 (Arrive in the evening)
17:00 Arrive
17:15 Brief grounds tour
17:30 Brief talk with HS
18:50 Dinner
18:30 Service
19:15 Tea with HS
21:15 Try to sleep
22:30 Sleep

11/11
03:50 Wake
04:00 Service
05:00 Yoga (led by Chungya Su-nim, a young nun who just returned from two years in India)
06:30 Meditate
07:00 Break fast
08:30 Nap (hey, I got up early)
09:30 Wake
10:00 Shower
11:00 Service
11:50 Lunch (HS eats only one meal, lunch, each day)
13:30 Talk with HS about world issues, mtg. of East and West, etc.
14:45 Rest
15:30 Hike with Tor, Byung-Joon, HS, and others
18:00 Dinner
18:30 Service
19:15 Tea. HS Discusses the Buddhist symbolism in the Matrix trilogy, among other things
21:15 Chungya Su-nim shows me some yoga positions for my back and shoulders
22:00 Read
23:00 Sleep

11/12
04:00 Service
05:00 Sleep
07:00 Breakfast
08:00 Stretch (privately)
08:50 Depart

Heaven and Hell

11/5/2005, Ajimu, Kyushu

Heaven and Hell: not just a party in Currier House.

Heaven and Hell is a ~500 year old Buddhist temple near Ajimu, on Kyushu, the large island south of Honshu. There is a network of caves beneath the shrine. It is filled with statues. 60-watt light bulbs strung together with extension cords are probably the most recent addition to the caves, and judging by the spider webs and wear, they have been around for tens of years.

We wandered around a bit below the caves, and I paused for a picture near an Oni, or Japanese devil, statue. "He probably thinks that I'm mocking him, but I'm not," I thought as I posed next to him, avoiding a nearby puddle of water. My friend Justin took my picture.


You'll notice that I've lost my focus on the camera a bit. I had just seen some movement out of the corner of my eye. Some terrifying movement. I scamper across the room, crouching low to avoid it -- a huge centipede on the ceiling. I just know it will fall into my shirt and attack me (c.f. jellyfish story in Australia, below). "They're poisionious," Justin says, backing away. (I apologize that in my closeup of the beast I was not able to place my thumb to give scale to the image -- I think my reasoning on this point is obvious)

As Justin tries to talk me under the hideous, poisionious, creature, I almost crawl across the room. Betsy returns from another chamber, nonplussed. We shreik at her -- don't come in! Justin keeps trying to talk me forward.

In a moment, everything changes. Justin turns, and notices four of the Devils' creatures next to his head. We scream and exit the cave.

The rest of the temple was pleasant. A verticle climb up a rock shaft with a long chain for support, and some lovely statues. The view from the top overlooked beautiful mountains, haizy in the distance.














Later in the day, we visited a lovely waterfall. There were no powerlines in view, and it was isolated -- which in Japan, means that we saw only a handfull of other people.

Japanese Lessons

11/1/05, Okayama Japan

After arriving in Tokyo, I was struck by the fact that I was immediately illiterate. Japanese uses several phonetic alphabets, but most words are written in Kanji, the chinese-derived symbolic alphabet. We, of course, have no idea how to read this alphabet.

I had my first real Japanese lesson yesterday, in a pedagogically unusual setting. It strayed from its original topic a bit, but eventually, I learned something.

Betsy and I dined in Bizen, yesterday evening, in Okayama prefecture. After dinner, we strolled by a signed building that she had previously noticed but never identified. With coaxing by her, I opened the door.

Four women sat in a dark, panneled room, and one of them enthuastically yelled at me in Japanese. I shut the door immediately. As we walked away, Betsy told me that the woman had said, "Welcome." Well, if we were welcome, we should go back. I insisted that we turn around for a drink.

What followed was a little unexpected. Betsy and I had just eaten a huge meal, but the women kept putting plates of food in front of us (chocolate, crackers, etc.). (We later learn that you are supposed to not touch the food, as you get charged for each plate). It's a far cry from Spain, where free tapas are foisted on you with vigour. The bar was also oddly stocked. They didn't have gin and tonic, but rather had bottles and bottles of Hennesy, other Cognacs, and brandies. We had rum and cokes.

After a few minutes, four factory workers, already inebriated, entered and joined us at the bar. They ranged from 30 years to 50 years old. They kept sending us drinks, and more food kept coming. Fortunately, Karaoke prevented us from having to interact with them all that much, though one did "like" Betsy. After Betsy and I had hung around and performed several songs ("Yesterday," "Like a Prayer," You're so vain," "Cecelia," and my solo of "99 Luftballoons" (auf Deutsch)), we decided to go. We had only asked for two drinks, so were surprised with a bill that was roughly twice what are dinner cost (apperantly, in Japan sending someone a drink also entails sending them the bill for the drink).

Though it was expensive, I learned a lot that will be useful in the future: 1) sending someon a drink is easy and free; 2) Japnan is a very supportive place to do Karaoke.

Plus, as for my Japanese, I now know the Kanji for "musical interlude."

World Service

I visited the Yongsan Electronics Market today--building after building and floor after floor filled with every possible electronics item one could imagine. I purchased a shortwave radio; listened to Radio Australia and the BBC World Service this evening, both of which came through nice and clear. This is a nice diversion from the usual quiet of the apartment. I've taken to long walks in the evening, as the apartment is rather empty and quiet at night. Of course, I now have Chris's company again; he arrived in Seoul today, having taken an overnight ferry from Japan and a train from Busan. We're off to the DMZ tomorrow.

Seoul

In Seoul since Thursday. Chris joins me tomorrow.

Collusion

This did not happen to me, but to the friend that I'm staying with in
rural Japan:

My friend was invited to dine with a local family the other night.
The family consists of the mother, whom my friend knows from a local
shop, the father, who is a local factory owner, and the daughter,
approximately 28, who does some managerial work in their factory.

As the meal was winding down, the business man showed my friend some
photos of him with the prefecturial governor. Being polite, my friend
showed interest; the father was obviously proud of his status in the
community. My friend related to him that she had met the
vice-governor at a function through her teaching program.

He got very excited: he too knew the vice governor! In fact, he was
having a meeting with him in the coming week. He produced the list of
meeting attendees: local business people on one side, politicos on the
other. He was second among the business people, and the vice-governor
first amongst the politicians. My friend asked what the meeting was
about, but didn't understand the subsequent explanation in Japanese.

Friend: I'm sorry, I don't understand.
Businessman: Hmm... let me see here.
- Uses electronic dictionary -
B: [Says a word, but my friend is unable to understand]! The meeting is for [that word].
F: Excuse me?
B: Here. See?

At this point, the business man shows my friend the entry in the
dictionary. The purpose of the meeting, as translated by the
dictionary: collusion and back-scratching.

It's good to know that politics transcends national and cultural barriers